For more than 20 years, Torre and David Solazzo have crafted an idyllic small-town life while bringing big, new flavors to Covington diners. David hails from upstate New York, and Torre grew up in New Orleans.
In 1999, both were recent culinary school graduates when they met in the kitchen at Tra Vigne, one of the most prestigious restaurants in Sonoma. Working side by side on the line, a friendship began that grew into a romance, and led to a marriage in 2001.
As is often the case, when you marry a New Orleans girl, the Crescent City eventually brings you home. The couple’s farm-to-table sensibilities acquired in California blossomed working under Chef Gerard Maras at his downtown New Orleans restaurant before Vicky Bayley tapped the two to run her kitchen at groundbreaking Artesia in Abita Springs.
Torre’s parents had moved to the Northshore in the late 1990s, so the newlyweds settled there too. One evening, they spotted a tiny storefront available in downtown Covington and took a leap of faith.
“We opened Del Porto in 2002 with a $20,000 investment,” Torre remembered, a feat that seems almost impossible today. That same year, New Orleans Magazine named Del Porto restaurant of the year, and those 12 tables quickly became the most sought-after reservation on either side of the lake.
When the Northshore population exploded following Hurricane Katrina, in 2007 the Solazzos tripled their capacity by moving to a much larger space just up the street from their original location. Seven years later, a wine room provided additional dining space, which has become a popular spot for private parties.
“Baby showers, rehearsal suppers and corporate events keep us very busy,” Torre said.
The real driver here is the perfectly executed “Cal-Ital” style food, the Solazzo’s trademark. Grilled meats and seafood are complemented by seasonal farm-fresh vegetables and silky, house-made pastas. The menu changes quarterly to reflect the seasons, with the weekly Covington Farmers Market providing both inspiration and ingredients.
“David is always the first shopper there,” Torre said. “He’s created such great relationships with the farmers over the years, they always have something special for him. David can’t ever resist stopping at a roadside stand in pursuit of fresh product.”
While her husband’s passion for pasta remains unabated, Torre longed for a new creative outlet. When the former Greyhound Bus station right down the street from Del Porto became available, the Solazzos transformed the space into another Covington first — The Greyhound, a true European gastropub that officially opened June 17, 2021.
“The quality is the same, but the atmosphere is more casual,” Torre commented.
From North African spiced lamb meatballs to Madagascar shrimp curry and pork weinerschnitzel with spatzle, there are no limits to the menu on Chef Torre’s international playground. As true reflection of her most beloved foods, her Jewish heritage shines through in “Gramma Evelyn’s Chopped Chicken Liver” and matzo ball soup. The wood-burning oven inspires unusual dishes like wood-roasted feta Mediterranean and roasted escargot while also producing some of the best pizzas to be had on the Northshore.
When it comes to staffing, the Solazzos have always kept it local.
“When we opened Del Porto, it was just me and David and a couple of kids from Covington High’s Culinary Program who went on to find their own life in food. Now, George Shank has Hoodoo Ice Cream here in Covington, and Nick Usner became one of our favorite farmers,” Torre said with a smile. “Over the years, we’ve watched customers come with their babies, who grow up and come to us for their first jobs. Their parents feel comfortable trusting them to us and they become part of our family.”
Their own 11-year-old daughter, Evelyn, loves working in the restaurant as well.
“She is a real natural. It’s wonderful to watch her interact with customers,” the proud mama reported. “Covington is a great place to raise a kid — completely different than my experience growing up in New Orleans — and we’re so grateful to be part of the community.”
Catch Poppy Tooker on her radio show, “Louisiana Eats!” Saturdays at 3 p.m. and Mondays at 8 p.m. on WWNO 89.9 FM.
Poppy Tooker has spent her life devoted to the cultural essence that food brings to Louisiana, a topic she explores weekly on her NPR-affiliated radio show, Louisiana Eats! From farmers markets to the homes and restaurants where our culinary traditions are revered and renewed, Poppy lends the voice of an insider to interested readers everywhere.
