NEW ORLEANS — As Joanie’s Cheese Straws grows from a family recipe into a small-batch New Orleans business, proprietor Joanie Hartson Mulkin says the endeavor is built around the idea that food is about bringing people together.
“In New Orleans, food is never just food—it’s connection, tradition, and joy. That belief guides everything I do. Joanie’s Cheese Straws are meant to be shared when people gather, when something is being celebrated, or when you want to bring a little tradition to the table,” said Hartson Mulkin.
That sense of connection traces back to Hartson Mulkin’s childhood.
“Cheese straws are more than a Southern treat to me. They are a New Orleans family tradition woven deeply into my roots,” said Hartson Mulkin. “I grew up as one of six girls in a pink house with a pink kitchen, where love was measured in laughter and the scent of warm cheese straws fresh from the oven.”
Growing up in a household where cheese straws were central to family gatherings shaped how she understood food—as a way to bring people together and mark shared moments.
From Family Tradition to Business
“Those memories stayed with me, and over time I realized they were something worth sharing beyond my own family. When I launched the business in August, it felt like a natural extension of that legacy,” said Hartson Mulkin. “Today, every batch is still made with the same tender loving care I learned in my mother’s kitchen.”
The path to turning that legacy into a business unfolded in phases. Hartson Mulkin spent her first year producing and selling cheese straws online from her home kitchen, then paused operations for a year before transitioning into a commercial kitchen, where she has now been operating for the past year.
From Home Kitchen to Commercial Production
Reflecting on the period leading into that transition, Hartson Mulkin said the timing for launching Joanie’s Cheese Straws aligned both personally and professionally.
“This moment felt right because both my life and the business had shifted. After pausing at the end of my first year, I continued baking small batches for friends and family. Then, almost unexpectedly, a single tin sent along on a trip to Montana sparked an investment interest and reminded me there was still something here worth building,” she said.
Encouragement from others helped clarify the next step—from hobby to operation.
“Along the way, so many people offered encouragement, advice, and perspective. Their steady support helped me see the next step more clearly. With more experience behind me and a sharper vision for what was next. I had intention and balance, ready to grow the business. That first step was not just a leap of faith. It was real. I was buying commercial kitchen equipment and started to make cheese straws by the container load with orders coming on my website,” said Hartson Mulkin.
That growth required leaving behind the familiarity of home baking and navigating the practical realities of food production.
“Letting go of the comfort of my home kitchen was one of the hardest steps. I spent two years operating under cottage law before transitioning into a commercial kitchen at Friends of Codey’s NOLA, which became an unexpected lifeline… and family,” she said.
During that period, Hartson Mulkin navigated both active production and a pause before fully scaling the business.
The shift forced her to balance nostalgia with the responsibilities that come with scaling a food business.
“Learning food safety, licensing, and consistency required me to grow quickly and think differently. Every step involved balancing nostalgia with responsibility. I wanted customers to feel the same warmth I felt growing up, while also delivering a product that met the highest standards. That tension shaped every decision—and ultimately made the business stronger,” said Hartson Mulkin.
Customer response to Joanie’s Cheese Straws has reinforced the emotional core of the business.
“The response has been incredibly humbling. Customers often tell me the cheese straws remind them of their mother, their grandmother, or a time when families gathered more often. That emotional connection means more to me than any sales number,” Hartson Mulkin said.
Local retail interest has followed, a meaningful milestone in a city known for its culinary expectations.
Joanie’s Cheese Straws: Building With Integrity and Intention
“Local retailers have been supportive and curious, which feels especially meaningful in a city with such high culinary standards. Right now, success looks like steady growth, repeat customers, and knowing I’m building something with integrity,” she said.
Hartson Mulkin says she is not trying to compete on volume or visibility, but on authenticity.
“I don’t compete by being louder, I compete by being real. Joanie’s Cheese Straws are handmade, small-batch, and rooted in a true family story. I’m not chasing trends or mass production. People can taste the care, patience, and intention in every bite, and that’s what keeps them coming back,” she said.
Family remains central to the Joanie’s Cheese Straws business, just as it was when the recipe was first passed down.
“Family is still at the heart of everything I do. The love, support, and hard work my husband and children bring to this business make it possible. My sisters and friends have all jumped in at different times—baking, packing, delivering, and cheering me on,” she said.
A Second Act
For Hartson Mulkin, the business also carries a broader message—particularly for women considering a new chapter.
“I want women to know that wisdom is powerful. Starting a business later in life means trusting your instincts, drawing on resilience, and understanding what truly matters. I didn’t start this to prove anything—I started it to honor my past and invest in my future,” she said.
“If there’s one lesson I hope to share, it’s this: don’t let age convince you the window has closed.”
