Last fall, native New Orleanian Tom Branighan and Iowa-born Molly Wismeier opened MaMou, a modern, French brasserie on North Rampart Street.
The cozy corner spot —formerly home to Meauxbar — has become an important player in New Orleans’ restaurant scene. National attention arrived this fall when The New York Times declared MaMou one of America’s “50 Most Exciting Places to Dine” and Bon Appétit named the fledgling bistro one of America’s “Best New Restaurants of 2023.”
Both Wismeier and Branighan have crystal clear memories of the night they first met. It was at Petit Lion, a contemporary Parisian bistro that opened in the Troubadour Hotel in December 2016. Branighan, the sous chef, had a strong French culinary background honed during years in Manhattan, where he learned to craft Joel Robuchon’s legendary purée de pommes and other lofty techniques from David Bouley while working at the chef’s iconic restaurant, Bouley, in Manhattan’s TriBeCa.
Later, while working with Daniel Boulud at the Café Boulud in New York City, the restaurant received its third Michelin star, and when famed chef Paul Bocuse visited, Branighan had the opportunity to cook for him.
Despite his success in the Big Apple, however, Branighan always knew he wanted to make his mark at home in New Orleans.
Meanwhile, after spending five years as a sommelier with Charlie Trotter in Chicago, Wismeier was recruited in 2012 by chefs Rick Tramanto and John Folse to build Restaurant R’evolution’s epic wine cellar in New Orleans.
By 2016, Wismeier successfully parlayed R’evolution’s 12,000-bottle cellar into a multimillion-dollar beverage program and was named one of the nation’s top seven sommeliers by Food & Wine Magazine — one of only three women that year to receive the distinction.
But more about that pork chop!
“I served Molly a dish I’d created there,” Branighan remembered. “It was a roast pork short loin served on house made choucroute with sauce Robert. She took one bite, and it made her cry!”
Branighan’s dish evoked taste memories for Wismeier of happy days studying wines in France’s finest vineyards. A friendship began, and the two restaurant professionals began dreaming of what they might be able to create together one day.
During research trips to France before opening their new restaurant, MaMou, both Wismeier and Branighan were struck by Parisian’s “floral maximalism,” an effect floral designer Kim Starr Wise recreates indoors and out. From the tuxedo-fold napkin, complete with a fresh flower boutonniere, to the crystal stemware specially selected to present Wismeier’s wine collection, every detail imaginable has been meticulously thought through.
Despite the exquisite but approachable surroundings, it’s the food and drink that position MaMou for greatness.
While remaining true to the classical French techniques he cherishes, Branighan’s surprising flavors range from a whimsical red bean cassoulet finished with Crystal Hot Sauce to a celeriac remoulade garnished with a Gulf blue crab claw and pain perdu that speak to his South Louisiana heritage. MaMou’s poisson a la Florentine is Michelin-star worthy, with a caviar beurre blanc topped with a veritable laurel wreath of crisp puff pastry.
The pork chop that started it all remains a menu mainstay.
Perfectly complementing each bite are Wismeier’s carefully curated wine selections.
“Despite being a new restaurant, MaMou’s list includes wines with age. We have Grand Cru Burgundy from the ’80s, prestige Couvée Champagne and classified Bordeaux,” the lauded sommelier reported with a smile.
Despite the recent national acclaim, both Wismeier and Branighan agree their greatest honor is the opportunity to pass their knowledge and experience on to the next generation.
“We’re training industry professionals by teaching difficult techniques that are hard to execute,” Wismeier said. “I am so motivated by watching our people grow and learn.”
Catch Poppy Tooker on her radio show, “Louisiana Eats!” Saturdays at 3 p.m. and Mondays at 8 p.m. on WWNO 89.9 FM.
Poppy Tooker has spent her life devoted to the cultural essence that food brings to Louisiana, a topic she explores weekly on her NPR-affiliated radio show, Louisiana Eats! From farmers markets to the homes and restaurants where our culinary traditions are revered and renewed, Poppy lends the voice of an insider to interested readers everywhere.
